light line. The blue will be practically indistinguishable,

but the WHITES OF YOUR EYES will look clear and bright and whiter than they ever have!

·

.THE BROWS..

The pencil, in the color closest to your own, is great for BROWS. The first tool to use is a brow BRUSH, brushing upward over the arch. This will show you where the stray hairs are that should be tweezed out. I don't like the idea of drastically reshaping a brow, but I do like the brows to be light rather than heavy. A heavy brow limits the eye, closes it in, constricts and narrows an area that should be a projection of infinity. Remember the eyes that men could drown them- selves in?

Tweezing should always be followed by an application of astringent or alcohol and a rich cream or moisturizer over the entire tweezed and surround- ing areas. This is a time when your face needs extra condition- ing and some pacifying. The assault of the tweezer leaves it wanting to be pampered. Never follow a tweezing with a makeup, as the minute open- ings left by tweezing can get clogged by makeup. Plucking is a rather jarring experience for those tiny pores, and they need immediate care and comfort, not an onslaught of products that would at that time only irritate. Kindness to your face is important-in this instance and always.

Brows should be lightly arched, never exaggerated. After brushing them up, use your pen- cil to make SHORT, HAIRLIKE STROKES where necessary to fill in the sparser areas. Never draw a single continuous line on the brow. This is totally unnatural and results in a hard, menacing, most unattractive look. Any penciling-in that is done should imitate the actual little hairs of the brow.

I have gotten terrific results with BLEACHING the brows. This can be done when the shape of the brow is fine but the color is too dark for the face. My most famous example of this technique is Sophia Loren. Of course, she always had a strong, wonderful face, but lightening her brows made her truly unforgettable. It soften- ed her look. Compare her pic- tures before and after I started the bleaching, in 1963. Her naturally dark brows conflicted with the strong lines of her face. They kept those marvelous eyes from really projecting as they should. I have found that bleaching the brows not only opens the eye area but that sometimes the entire face takes on a newer, refreshed aspect. UNNOTICEABLE

brows

are a very natural thing. Consider those beings in nature who have the most riveting, commanding eyes. Birds. The great cats. THEY HAVE NO BROWS AT ALL. The eyes of the lion, those great golden orbs that can transfix you even in a photograph, are completely unshadowed by brows. Now, I'm not suggesting that this would be a correct look for most wo- men. There can be something remarkably attractive about the human eyebrow. But in most cases, which is to say on most faces, the brows should definite- ly be de-emphasized.

Look at yourself in the mirror. If your brows seem too emphatic, too heavy or dark for your face, then by all means consider having a professional cosmetician bleach them for you. It's a very simple procedure, but one that should be done FOR you and with the proper materials and equipment.

You may also like the way you look with your brows BRUSHED UP, as I suggest they should be before tweezing. Brows brushed up also take the line away from the eye, again OPENING the area. Look portraits of ladies in 19

at

Renaissance paintings. See how light and thin the brows were. What expressions of serenity were achieved that way, and what attention was brought to the eye! Those eyes look as though they could go on forever. Remember what I said about extending the eye-shadow color on the upper part of the past the outer corner of the eye, blending toward the temples? That is a great way to extend the eye and achieve this beautiful look.

.THE LASHES..

•

We are now ready to give the finishing touch to the eye area--grooming the lashes. I love the look of great, black, sweeping lashes and the use of lots and lots of mascara to make it come true. I think it's difficult to use too much mas- cara. Unlike the brows, whose heaviness may constrict the eyes, the surrounding fringe of lashes becomes lovelier as it becomes thicker. Great, sweeping lashes are enormously flattering to the eyes and indeed to the entire face. I love to see lashes that seem to radiate almost in a starlike effect, out from the eye, brushing almost against the cheek.

Almost all mascara today is applied with the wandlike appli- cator, whose top is a brush and whose bottom is a well holding the mascara. It's a terrific tool, in that it does away with the smearing and uncertainty of those old tiny brush-and-cake sets. This is easy:

Holding the lid down, brush on mascara, on the top of the lashes, FIRST FROM THE ROOTS TO THE TIPS. Then, with the eye open, brush on another coat from bottom to top. This puts two coats on the upper lashes. Then do the lower lashes, from the roots outward, on the upper surface only. By this time, the first coats on the upper lashes should be dry, and you can apply second coats.